Tag Archive: butterflies


How time flies

A year has passed since I last posted on this blog. A long year, an epic year; sometimes glorious and sometimes tragic. Our nation spins into a historic place in the universe, where anger and anxiety erupt like the burning lava from restless Kilauea.

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Photo U.S. Geological Survey

As the nation reels toward some dark unknown, I reinvent my life at home. This July 4th, I won’t go to the barn with apples and carrots once the fireworks start. Larkey isn’t there anymore to become anxious and need my company.  He passed away suddenly, catastrophically in May. He not only isn’t there in form — I can’t find him in spirit anymore.

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We got in one spring bath this year. 

IMG_2089[1]I am reimagining the barn space because I won’t replace my horses. I work too far from my home to acclimate and train a new horse. They are herd animals, so more than one is better. I can’t be sure I’ll be around for the entire life of a couple young horses, and it isn’t easy to find a new home for equines.

But I can’t bear the silence, the vacancy walking through the barn. I am never lonely without people, but this feels alone, and lonely.

IMG_3417So I planted flowers in Larkey’s hay bins, to honor him and to soften the memory of what happened in the outside paddock. When the barn swallows are done nesting in September, I will clean his stall, repaint, and turn the space into an outdoor painting studio for the warm months. Maybe then his spirit will come back and keep me company.

The outside wall has been decaying, and needs reinforcement and new surface.  It is a perfect, sunlit surface for a green wall, an herb garden. A coworker helps me find an idea and I start cleaning out the space within.

I will clean the horse trailer and sell it.  I will never need one again, and this one has been sitting unused for years, unless you count bird visitors. The proceeds can go toward a camper van, maybe.

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I believe this is a Pacific slope flycatcher nest.  Last year, a Bewick’s wren nested here.

After decades with horses woven tightly in the fabric of my life, I am wandering adrift in the starlit dark searching for a new universe to occupy.

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This is what I was doing instead of blogging- thousands of hours of work storytelling. This ESRI Story Map is best viewed desktop with Chrome or Safari. 

The neglect of this blog did not mean I fell silent. I had trailed the story of the North American buffalo across thousands of miles and hundreds of hours of research. I labored to create this story in a multimedia online platform- something different, maybe something that would attract a younger audience. Maybe they would care and step up to support prairie and bison conservation. I spent hours every night on this project, missing time with Larkey, missing time to exercise. It published in January and was better received than I expected.  The project gained a life of its own, with a blog and social media channels that needed tending.

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The badlands of Grasslands National Park in Saskatchewan were as far away and unpeopled as I could find.

With Lark gone, I took to the road to process my new life.  I had already gone to Nebraska for the sandhill crane festival, then France for a conference and vacation.  But I needed away again, so I traveled to Montana and Saskatchewan.  I drove, and wandered grasslands, and slowly the nightmares and sleepwalking ended.

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I am very blessed to have a home of my own. Sure, it’s a lot of work, but it is a quiet place –and my own place. 

Now I am home again, digging myself out from an explosion of greenery, and figuring out what is next. The barn swallows are back from South America.  Rufous hummingbirds have arrived from Mexico and joined our resident Annas hummers. Red admiral and swallowtail butterflies appear on warm sunny days, dancing on the breeze.

Hummer052118I count my blessings.  I am lucky to have been tested young and learned how to adapt. I am resilient, and have the ability and resources to recreate. As the world gets darker and narrower, many find themselves trapped. I am not, at least right now. The terrible memory of Larkey’s death still sneaks up on me, but I am not an anguished parent adrift in a strange country with no idea where my children reside. I am not now in a war zone, wondering when the bombs will detonate.

SatyrAnglewingAnd I have things to do.  More stories to tell, artwork to create, images to capture.  I need to get back into shape to backpack in the fall. I don’t know what the next year will hold for me, for the nation, for the world. But today and every day I can find something bright, and count myself fortunate for the time being.

 

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People would feel foolish standing on the deck of a boat looking out over the ocean and declaring that nothing could be living underneath the water simply because they couldn’t see it.  Yet the same people drive past expansive grasslands and open country saying that “nothing’s out there” because they can’t see it.

Grasslands are like the ocean, with a sea of life swimming past.  The land undulates like waves, hiding animals from view. The frothy grass heads washed windward mask a multitude of little things.  You just have to wade through the grass and find these things.

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The easiest to find are the birds because they will rise above the waves of grass.  Harriers swoop low over the land, trying to scare up rodents. Falcons, hawks and owls perch on fenceposts and  in trees by creeks to scan for meals.  Even doves and meadowlarks use whatever they can find as a singing platform.

Then there are the mammals that can move through the grass, but use it for shade and cover.  Deer, pronghorns, bison all eat the grass, bed down in it, move through it.  Deer have a way of appearing suddenly out of grasslands, invisible until you get a white flag flipped in your face and see slender legs bounding away from you.

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Prairie dogs live under the sea bottom, and coyotes hunt at the bottom.  Black footed ferrets, rabbits and badgers keep the dogs company, while the real canids sniff around looking for a rodent, berry, or insect meal.

And then there are the really little things- bugs and bones, plants and fungi, rocks and flowers.  Even geologic monuments installed long, long ago. Finding all the interesting living and non-living things in a grassland sea even a mile square can take you hours, from dawn to dusk to catch them all.

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I look like one of those people, but I’m not.  No, I don’t watch television.  There is too much else to do. But that “else” isn’t pursuit of the spiritual, the religious, the social. I do things with my beat up hands, with my land, with my horses. In my spare time, I either stay home or pack bags and go:  near or far, with a pass or a passport; drive, take the bus or train, or fly; stay in a tent or a motel or a hut.

I’m not a total luddite:  I will indulge in crazy animated movies once in awhile. I obviously use electronics, digital cameras, a computer, a smartphone, a tablet.

 

But a bald eagle tumbling through the air grabbing at the talons of a territory-invading hawk is a commercial free distraction. The dark eyes of a harbor seal that has followed my kayak home and hovers in the pool by the beach is a soulful farewell. A hummingbird that weighs less than a nickel defending a stand of bee balm from butterflies, bees, and birds entertains.  These moments are far more arresting than a conversation over chai tea in a carefully designed faux salvage cafe decor.

HummerBranchThis region’s legendary traffic is my excuse for not indulging in urban cultural events and going to dinner with friends.  My friends live three dozen miles away, south on a perpetually crowded freeway, or a thousand miles away.  My family, like many, is spread across the country. But travel isn’t really the barrier, because I do that a lot.  I just like wandering around by my lonesome, in the moment, in as natural an environment as I can find. dragonfly1

I paid my dues retrieving my mother’s blood spattered, broken glasses from the wreckage of her truck 30 years ago. Already supremely independent and restless, I’ve never again been that easy close to people after that little tragedy.  I wander afar, road trip, hike, and camp on my own, or stay home to do artwork and landscaping in the company of animals, most of them wild. In practice, I’m an absent, unrelaible friend, checking in sporadically with pictures and stories about travel and home. RedSnake

So I don’t watch television, attend retreats to become mindful and soulful, seek cultural events and stimulating conversation over gourmet meals. I sound awful.  But I’m not a hermit: I work with the public and give volunteer presentations and workshops whenever I’m asked. I’m friendly to every friendly person I meet. I care about the friends I don’t keep up with. I’m interested in other people’s stories. It’s just that when the day is done, I take my stories home, disconnect from humanity, and go where the wild things are.

And that’s okay.  The world has enough people- it doesn’t need me out there.

VultureOnSlashPileThe animal company I keep does need people, though.  They need us to plant more trees and shrubs, build more rock piles and slash piles, hoist up more nests until there is enough nature to build their own.  They need cleaner, cooler water and skies without flight hazards and light pollution. At my little sanctuary, they reward my efforts by mulitplying and bringing their offspring back each year. My visitors are a study in simplicity, with simple wants:  food, family, turf, home. This, I understand.

 

Garden on the Skyline Divide Trail. More pictures below!

Garden on the Skyline Divide Trail. More pictures below!

The day hike is a modern convention, dependent on the automobile and decent roads that allow us to leave our homes and return the same day, with a walk in between. If the trail is close, the roads are good, and the journey is easy enough for us to tackle, we can day hike and still have plans for the evening.  We all complain sometimes: “I drove six hours to hike six hours”.  By saying this, we forget that once, before modern cars or roads, we might have journeyed a week to our hiking destination and then had to stay while to make it worthwhile.

I prefer to camp outdoors over day hiking, making up a fraction of hikers.  It’s not the drive vs. hiking time that drives this preference. In fact, I sleep better in a tent with natural sounds than in a bed where my thoughts may become too noisy for sleep.  When life and work deny me sleep at home, I sometimes pitch a tent in the yard, which is beyond my neighbors’ worried eyes. I sometimes wonder how long it takes in the outdoors to replace dreams of being late for crucial meetings with dreams of raptors soaring on thermals.

But day hike we do, to get a break, to get some exercise, or to introduce our lovely natural areas to our friends, or visitors from afar.

Mt. Baker from Skyline Divide

Mt. Baker from Skyline Divide

In my case, I’m hiking this summer to get ready for a trip to the Canadian Arctic in late July and can’t always stay out overnight due to those obligations that haunt my dreams.  Washington State offers lovely day hikes for all sorts, and they have magical moments along with grand views. Two hikes that held something new for me are Lake Valhalla and Skyline Divide.  I have traveled to Lake Valhalla only in winter, when the avalanche conditions in Stevens Pass allow.  Summer is a new experience for me on that trail. I have never been to Skyline Divide due to its reputation for crowds. I hiked both during the week and enjoyed limited crowds of really nice folks, young and not so much so, clearly dedicated to relaxation and peace.

Anise Swallowtail at Skyline Divide

Anise Swallowtail at Skyline Divide

Both trails sparkled with butterflies, though the historic heat this summer has wilted the most exposed flowers early in the season.  I perched on the Skyline Divide ridge to catch a refreshing breeze coming up from the valley below while I ate lunch.  From my perch, I watched swarms of butterflies over a still-fresh meadow, chasing each other in multi-colored tornadoes when too many occupied the same verdant space.  At Lake Valhalla, I rested in the sand by the lake for lunch and watched many butterflies puddling, taking up mineral from the moist soils.  Before I even left the trailhead, I saw my first Parnassian

Believe this is Clodius Parnassian

Believe this is Clodius Parnassian

On both trails, I met a diversity of people that we never used to see 20 years ago outside of the national parks:  all skin colors, all ages, all walks of life.  Gone is the monotony of urgent looking white people ( the majority male) pounding down the trail in long johns with shorts over the top, bent on a destination.  Not only the car, but the guidebook and the gear store have made hiking accessible to a variety of people who come for the day, but may help to protect our natural areas forever.  This is not a bad thing- there will always be solitude to find, but unless a lot of people care about the outdoors, there will be no outdoors to celebrate.  Viva the day hike!

For an amazing variety of hikes throughout Washington State, along with trip reports, visit Washington Trails Association at www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes. 

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In a year where I’m grabbing for the steering wheel and brake pedal as the driverless car careens down a ravine, the patterns of nature go on as usual.  For the second year, a Bewicks wren has built a nest in a compartment under the gooseneck of the horse trailer.  I can see little bits of grass inside the entry, and hear the hatchlings fruitlessly singing at me to bring them a spider, a moth, anything.

The horse trailer may as well be a home for birds.  This year I know why Tigger has been breaking the top rail of his fence, piling up bedding against a wall, lagging behind me on the way to the barn once in awhile.  The vet ultrasounds his fetlocks and lo, he has an old suspensory ligament injury, or perhaps chronic degradation of the ligament, she can’t tell which.  He’s been perching on fencing and piling up material to perch his butt and get weight off his back feet.

I get the answer to catastrophic versus chronic a month later, when I come home from a three-day conference and find a swelling below his hock that signals trouble.  A new ultrasound shows torn ligament and a fragment of bone pulled away. It is the end of his riding life, and signals time to make a decision.  Not a decision to do surgery or stem cell injections, which are options, but excessive: he’s 17, abnormally tall and broad for his breed.  The most humane decision is to let him go gentle into that good night.  It is for people to rage against the dying light, foolishly perhaps, but not for me to kill my horse on the ground after he embarks on one last hurrah and rips the ligaments to shreds.

But this isn’t coming easily, because there is work to do and a companion to find for my other horse. I work on insurance to board a horse, start to repair that top rail and consider the trouble an average horse might find in my barn.  My horses are ridiculously polite about fencing and wood and the occasional rough edge, but I know that a new horse may test those fences and find those edges.  Finding a companion proves to be a saga, too, reminding me of a friend’s one-time journey through the deceit of Match.com. She’s calm, I’m told, and then the mare slams the door of her stall with a foot as I pass by.  There goes my kneecap, I think.  He has no bad habits, I hear, but then I find his stall chewed to splinters.

The vet suggests a companion animal. An article about Pharoah, first winner of the Triple Crown in 37 years, talks about his companion gelding.  For racehorses too dominant for another horse, there are goats and donkeys and even a pig, Charlie. But what if I get the goat or the donkey, neither of which I want, and Lark doesn’t like it?

And I leave for the Arctic on some wayward crazy journey (read: rage against the dying light or something to that effect), so changing up is a challenge before I leave. With the vet’s blessing, we labor on, with Tigger in a makeshift miniature paddock so Lark can live normally.  Larkey gets exercised under saddle, Tigger gets daily walks and hand grazing and I panic when he does anything sudden.  It’s summer, so I’ve taken to hand-grazing while I sit in a lawn chair with a camera and watch the world go by.

This is a rare treat for me, after years of planting and building and remodeling, and I see things that likely happen daily witnessed only by Tigger and Lark.  I hear the distinct sound of an Anna’s hummingbird and finally spy a female on a dead elderberry twig.  AnnasFemale1She begins tilting her head and then suddenly, a male lands on the branch and assumes a sort of begging posture.  This gets the “heck no” response from her, and she flies up and dive bombs him.  He leaves. There are many hummers this year, on every plant put in the ground for them, and draining the feeders.PrettyPlease

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Both bald eagles appear today to sit on the raptor-friendly power pole by the river to fish.  I haven’t been able to see the nest since leaves erupted on the huge cottonwood, but at one point my neighbor spied a white head in the nest.  Maybe there are young and they are both out hunting.  They fly in low over the horses as they graze, then lift up to the top of the pole.  I don’t have a camera then, and to get one, I have to tuck Tigger in Lark’s pen so he doesn’t run.  As I return, the visibly smaller eagle is heading back toward the nest, right over my head.

The remaining eagle sits watchful under bluebird skies, then suddenly starts calling.  He tilts his head, then out of nowhere comes a hawk of some kind (I think).  The hawk sails toward him, talons extended, and he throws his wings up like a powerful magic cape, screaming as he does.  The hawk lifts away, and the eagle arches in tense anger before relaxing again into his watchful pose.

EaglePowerPole EagleHawk1EagleHawk2There are always different filters to see with, and gifts to find along every path. I feel indecisive and uncertain about the choice to keep Tigger alive until I come home, but I am at peace with his situation. Two days after he was diagnosed, the Nepal earthquake hit, killing and rendering homeless many people who have never experienced a fraction of the health care my horse has received.  There are children starving in refugee camps, people trembling at every rumble, disease spreading through crowded camps.  There are people buried under the rubble of homes never meant to withstand shaking.

Yes, I raised this horse from a weanling.  Yes, he is sensible and calm, precious and dog-like.  But he has enjoyed more sustenance, attention, and care than many people, and it is good enough.  He will teach me to sit peacefully and see little things until he goes gentle into the good night.  And the trailer will sit singing until it’s time for his last journey.

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View of Mt. Baker from camp

View of Mt. Baker from camp

Besides working like a dog and finalizing my Certified Interpretive Trainer and Envision certifications,  I am trying to get back to wilderness fitness so I can go to Baffin Island next year and backpack the Arctic Circle for 3 weeks, maybe seeing a polar bear before they all expire.  I packed into the Park Butte/Railroad Grade trail in the Mt. Baker area to spend the night under a full harvest moon.  The road to the trailhead is excellent, unusual for our area, and I arrived early enough to get a decent parking spot. I was intending to head for Mazama Park, but a sign at the trailhead indicated it wasn’t available for camping due to a youth group.  I signed up for Cathedral Camp on my pass, not sure what I would find.

It’s not terribly far to get to a campsite, but the trail gets steep in one section.  In this area, I ran into two groups of young guys in camo with firearms, learning later they had arrived for the high country bear hunt.  The first group said they found a spot on Railroad Grade and thought there was at least a site or two open.  I figured I would try that first, and go on to Cathedral if nothing worked.

Awesome idea for a seasonal bridge where they wash out constantly

Awesome idea for a seasonal bridge where they wash out constantly

I grabbed the first site on the Grade, a great camping platform under some lovely mountain hemlock trees with a great view of the mountain.  The only better site I found in the area was the one closest to the moraine trail, a similar platform but with an even better view.  Since it was warm and dry, and unlike most of Washington, almost bug-free, so I brought my little lightweight Marmot Starlight shelter (more a glorified bivouac bag than tent).

My lovely little campsite

My lovely little campsite

The camp was above a lovely meadow and stream for water, with vibrant pink heather and pretty purple lupine in bloom.  The lack of bugs was a blessing at this time in the Cascades, as was relative relief from smoke of the raging wildfires scorching Washington.

I hiked the first day to the Climber’s Camp along Railroad Grade.  There are high country camps here, lovely but less private than my modest camp.  I’ve climbed Baker 18 years ago by this route.  I liked the Coleman route better since it was less crowded.  This route has a reputation for crowds, but it was not bad early on as I walked uphill.  A climbing couple passed me, and two women with packs.

Backpackers headed for the high camps

Backpackers headed for the high camps

I walked the very narrow trail on the eroded lateral moraine that embraced a once-mighty glacier. It’s stunning how far the glacier has receded, leaving the cavernous moraine to crumble into the void. The trail leads to “Sandy Camp” where a group of youth hosted by North Cascades Institute were spending the weekend.  Some had never been to wilderness before, nor ever camped.  They were having a superb time, skimming the snowfields and studying the world.

I chatted with two rangers, Julie and Vilay, who were going to give the youth group a talk.  Vilay was enjoying a break from her deployment as a fire ranger in the wildfire plagued areas of Eastern Washington.  She said the air quality was better here, and her cough was going away.  She had never backpacked before- but it was growing on her.  They were dividing their time between the youth group putting in the pit toilet in Mazama Park, and the group at Climber’s Camp.

I took shelter in the lee of a rock, since the wind sweeping off the glaciers was quite cold on an 80 degree day in the mountains, and took pictures of crevasses in the Easton Glacier.

This is late in the season, when crevasses are usually visible, but higher up, I could see a light snow layer over the surface.   I noticed that a group that seemed to be guided (in identical tents, and herded like cattle) climbed in the evening.  I wondered if they avoiding icy conditions that can become a sliding hazard if a climber slips.  Even skilled climbers have lost footing on August ice and careened down a slick glacier surface to their deaths.

 

Juba Skipper, first time I've seen one

Juba Skipper, first time I’ve seen one

Fritillary- maybe Arctic female, not sure

Fritillary- maybe Arctic female, not sure

Checkerspot on penstemon

Checkerspot on penstemon

What was most interesting to me, now that I’ve become older and distinctly batty, were the butterflies fiercely defending their patch of greenery and trying to complete a life cycle in the short alpine summer. At one point, I saw clouds of checkerspots rising in a tornado against an invading Western white.

And there were marmots- now dwindling in number, but according to Julie the Ranger, who does surveys, stable in this area at 46.  It’s hot for them, and I see a mother chillin’ on the snow, sprawled out while her baby tried to get her to come feed or nap in the den.  People are up here with dogs, and hopefully keeping them in check.  Julie says that marmots are suffering on the busy Skyline Divide Trail, possibly because of disturbance.  Later, I hear some kids whistling at them, and then passing the “trail closed” sign into marmot territory, which gets them calling.  Come on, folks- teach your kids better manners.  If they’re picking on animals at this age, they’ll be torturing people later on.

The night was lovely, with moonlight bathing the mountain and meadows and all of us sleeping beneath it.  I woke at one point to tremendous rock or ice fall, sounding like thunder in the night.  It happened twice in short order, suggesting maybe a serac went tumbling and took a buddy with it. A couple folks I talked to the next day said the sound woke them, too, and they thought there might even be an earthquake.The next morning I left my camp set up and hiked to the Park Butte fire lookout.  The morning light illuminated fields of pink heather still in bloom.  The trail winds up a rock garden and past two tarns, then winds around a bluff and approaches the lookout on a ledge.

Marmot announcing my presence

Marmot announcing my presence

Marmots chillin' on a hot day

Marmots chillin’ on a hot day. 

View from Park Butte Lookout

View from Park Butte Lookout

Heather meadows as the sun comes up

Heather meadows as the sun comes up

Trail to Park Butte lookout

Trail to Park Butte lookout

Bear, not being able to open her eyes to the vertiginous view

Bear, not being able to open her eyes to the vertiginous view

At the lookout, I met a dog- probably a Staffordshire bull terrier- named Bear.  Bear was an older dog who couldn’t bear to look at the dizzying view, and would stand on the stairs, or preferably my feet, with her eyes closed to feel secure.  Bear was lucky she was a dog when the two groups of hunters on the high country black bear hunt had passed the day before.  The nice young men were all dressed in Cabelas best- camo from head to foot and guns carried in safety position. They actually missed the black bear that the lookout overnighters and several campers saw.  All the campers were happy that the bear lived to see another day.

On the way down, I followed the nice young women I met the day before, cousins.  One worked for North Cascades Institute, the other was a piano repairwoman.  They were typical of the great young gals I meet now in the backcountry: free-spirited, happy,but and independent, loving the outdoors and their lives.  It gives my heart a lift to see this change- there is a light of hope for us women after all, and we are that light.

 

 

 

Tree beards, not Tree Beard- but by the full moon, who knows?

Tree beards, not Tree Beard- but by the full moon, who knows?

Admiral in the wet meadows on the lookout trail

Admiral in the wet meadows on the lookout trail